In a dark and hot pedestrian tunnel underneath Manila's university district,
shoemaker Julius Wilfredo Gregorio sweats as he sews rubber soles to a pair of
hand-crafted leather boots. The 37-year-old is aiming to make five pairs for the
day and avoid getting buried under a pile of orders from his ever-growing list
of cash-strapped fans of fashion. Since taking over his father's "Freddie's
Leather Haus" shop in 1991, Gregorio has gained a steady stream of both foreign
and local clients who buy his designs that aim to rival those sold in trendy
boutiques. "You don't have to be a rich action movie star to own top-quality
boots and be fashionable," Gregorio said, his sweat dripping as the battered
electric fan in the corner struggled to provide ventilation. "I can make you
shoes that will make you feel like one, all you have to add is a little
attitude," he said, pointing to a picture strategically tacked on his display
wall of a local action movie star wearing one of his designs. Gregorio is one of
the movers of the Philippine capital's underground fashion haven that operates
semi-legally in two pedestrian tunnels on Recto boulevard, where you can find
many of the city's universities. Over the decades, their tiny stalls and
cubicles have come to symbolize defiance of an industry obsessed with
ultra-expensive signature labels favored by Manila's social elite. The tunnels'
strategic location has helped clothiers and expert craftsmen gain a cult
following among mostly college students short on cash but high on fashion sense.
Shops here sell anything from jeans, boots and leather garments, accessories
such as beads and bracelets, to school and office uniforms and athletic gear at
friendly prices. Designs patterned after popular American brands are perennial
top sellers, although those seeking a personal touch can bring their own designs
while most retailers offer their own cutting-edge concepts. Price tags range
from 300 to 400 pesos (six to nine dollars) for a pair of denim jeans, while
cowhide boots can cost up to 4,000 pesos (93 dollars). This season's hot tickets
are colorful basketball jerseys to be worn in summer leagues organized by
various athletic organizations in a country addicted to the sport. "I often go
here to get my clothes done," said Pauline Banigued, a 23-year-old
communications major at one of the nearby universities, as she had her
measurements taken from a tailor for a blouse. "They are not exactly fashion
runway material, but they suit my taste just the same." The shops began
operating illegally in the 1970s but city hall long ago gave up the fight to
evict them, instead allowing them to thrive informally in exchange for token
electricity and rent payments. The subterranean industry has survived
globalization and the influx of foreign brands sold in air-conditioned
department stores and malls that are ubiquitous across the megalopolis of 12
million people. A powerful storm in 2009 that triggered Manila's worst flooding
in 40 years threatened to shut them down for good with the tunnels completely
submerged, but demand for their services remained high and they soon returned.
Veteran tailor Ruben Rosal, 59, began in the tunnels making just denim jeans,
but diversified over the years to meet customer demand. "People go to us and ask
us to make them blouses, skirts, even school and office uniforms," said Rosal,
59, amid the distant rumble of automobile engines overhead and as florescent
lights flickered in his shop. Rosal learned his craft from his older brother,
Danny, who channeled his creative juices from photography to clothing design in
the late 1970s. They named their shop Crazy Horse Jeans to capitalize on
spaghetti westerns that were the rage in Hollywood then, and the catchy label
stuck. Rosal's family now owns four shops, and the earnings from the business
have paid for the education of his five children, all of whom now have
university degrees. But just as importantly, Rosal said he believed his retail
career had offered something important back to the community. "I've been a
farmer and a fisherman in the province, but this is what I do best. I have made
clothes for all sorts of people, and I feel happy when they come back because
they are satisfied," he said. "I always say that good, quality clothes are for
everyone. Not just those who have the money to buy them." About Author Local,
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