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After having learned so much
about architecture during my morning walking tour of downtown Detroit, we
embarked on another urban discovery: a walking tour through Brush Park, one of
Detroit's historic residential areas with a location very close to downtown. Bob
Goldsmith, our local expert from Detroit Tour Connections, met us at 97 Winder
Street, location of a recently restored bed and breakfast, and started
explaining the history of the area to us. In its Victorian heydays, Brush Park
was an affluent neighbourhoood with numerous mansions for upper-class families.
The area's beginnings date back to the 1850s when local entrepreneur Edmund
Brush started subdividing his family's property. Construction activity peaked in
the 1870s and 1880s, and in 1906 one of the last mansions to be built was
renowned Detroit architect Albert Kahn's personal residence. The neighbourhood
stretches for 24 city blocks and originally included about 300 homes of which 70
were Victorian mansions. As transportation and the use of the automobile
expanded in the early 20th century, people started moving further afield, and
the Brush Park area started on a long road of decline. Many of the houses were
subdivided into smaller apartments during the Great Depression, and during the
post-war years numerous houses were abandoned altogether and fell into
disrepair. Many of the abandoned mansions started to attract criminal activity
and in many cases the city moved to demolish the homes, leaving large empty lots
of land behind. This phenomenon is commonly referred to as "urban prairie". At
the turn of the new millennium, less than half of the original structures were
still standing in Brush Park. Bob, a true Detroit connoisseur, came equipped
with a series of articles about the various historic structures, many of which
outlined the new owners' story and the cost and extent of the renovation effort.
Brush Park was truly an interesting experience, with its mix of beautifully
restored mansions that might sit right next to a burned out ruin which in turn
might be located adjacent to an empty plot of land where one of the former
buildings had been taken down. The highlight of our tour was when a local
resident invited us to come inside her apartment: Lisa Rush, a friend of Bob's,
recently bought a renovated studio apartment in one of the historic apartment
buildings in Brush Park. As we were walking through the neighbourhood, Bob
called her and she invited us in to show us the apartment. She even offered us
to use her washroom if we needed to. Lisa's apartment is a sleek studio with a
living room area and features a kitchen with an island and a bedroom area that
are all aligned in a long rectangular space. Off to the side was the bathroom.
Lisa is a member of Preservation Wayne, a non-profit organization dedicated to
preserving, promoting and protecting Detroit's defining neighbourhoods and
structures. Lisa was just celebrating with a few friends, and I was amazed that
she would invite three complete out-of-town strangers into her beautiful
apartment. This local connection was definitely unexpected and totally exceeded
my standard expectations of hospitality. Walking further north on John R Street
we turned left and walked by a mansion that is owned by a University of Windsor
professor who restored a beautiful Victorian era home that dates back to 1870.
Similar to Lisa, this professor has also invited Bob's tour participants into
his personal home to show them his art collection. A welcoming attitude like
this where locals open their private homes to complete strangers would probably
be unheard of in many other places. We also saw two churches, right next to one
another, one boarded up and out of use for several years now while the
neighouring church was a fully intact impressive Richardson Romanesque sandstone
building. A few steps further up the street is the Bonstelle Theater, which was
originally designed by Detroit architect Albert Kahn as Temple Beth El in 1903.
Historic buildings abound in this area of Detroit. On our way south on Woodward
we stopped at the upscale Zaccaro's Market at 3100 Woodward Avenue which offers
a variety of delicatessen and fresh, organic foods. Detroit has a marked absence
of large supermarkets, so stores like Zaccaro's fill in an important need for
local residents. Our tour was slowly coming to an end and Bob took us back to
Winder Street. This walking tour had certainly started to introduce us to some
of the historic and socio-economic issues of Detroit as well as some of the
recent rejuvenation efforts that have happened over the last 10 years. After a
coffee inside the stunning Guardian Building and a brief rest at the Westin Book
Cadillac Hotel my travel partner Linda and I were ready to head out again and
decided to explore another Detroit landmark: the Detroit People Mover. This 3
mile (4.5 km) long transportation system hauls people through downtown Detroit
on a single-track one-way loop. It only moves in one direction (at present in a
clockwise direction) and encompasses 13 stations throughout the central business
district. We entered the People Mover at the Renaissance Center, and the two
rail cars were absolutely packed due to a Detroit Red Wings game. Detroit is a
big sports town, with six professional sports teams, the most well-known of
which include the Detroit Tigers (baseball), the Detroit Lions (football) and
the Detroit Red Wings (hockey). Fans dressed in red hockey jerseys were entering
the vehicle, and things were getting crowded. For tourists, the heavily
subsidized People Mover transportation system is a great way to get around the
downtown area and even do some sightseeing from the elevated vantage point. At a
cost of only $0.50 per ride it is an absolutely affordable and fun way to see
different parts of the city. The entire People Mover loop took us about 20
minutes and brought us right back to where we started. We went inside the
Renaissance Centre, the world headquarters of General Motors since 1996. The
seven building complex includes the 73-storey Marriot Hotel which is the highest
hotel in the Western hemisphere. The top of the Marriott is crowned by the Coach
Insignia restaurant, which is also the largest rooftop restaurant. We admired
the large GM showroom on the main floor as well as the five-storey Wintergarden,
an airy glass enclosed space which provides access to the Riverfront and a great
view of Windsor across the river. Now hungry from all our explorations we headed
straight to the rooftop to see if we could have dinner at Coach Insignia.
Although the restaurant was packed and we did not have a reservation, we were
able to get a seat by the bar and were fascinated by the gorgeous view over the
Detroit River, Windsor and the Detroit business district. Belle Isle was visible
in the north and the Ambassador Bridge dominated the view in the south. We
enjoyed a tasty series of vegetarian appetizers of which the asparagus with
sauce hollandaise and the Caesar salad truly stood out. We spent a fabulous
evening at the top of Detroit and enjoyed the slowly sinking sun and the golden
glow it cast over the city. Tired and satisfied after a long day of explorations
we headed back for a good night's sleep to the Westin Book Cadillac Hotel. We
definitely needed to rest up since tomorrow our discoveries would take us to The
Henry Ford Museum and the recently renovated Detroit Institute of Arts. About
Author Susanne Pacher is a Travel Journalist specializing in you can get tons of
great unconventional and unique travel information and tips if you ?? Author of
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